Friday, October 21, 2011

Moooooo!!

Sacred cows keep making me laugh!



They walk or sleep on the roads...







Preferably in the middle of the road or on crossings





They are very much aware of their sacred status and consequently not scared of motorbikes cars or buses








They like to realx on the beach during the day...



...to relax with fellow cows in human form



They go to the market for shopping






They are being spoiled by the locals



And last but not least, they use the public toilet (sometimes)




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Location:India

Daily life in Goa





Love "living" in a new city or town for a while. You get to know the area, the people and the way of living. There is time to try different restaurants (and pick a favourite - Poisson Rouge!!) and to meet the locals. Shailendra invited us for dinner at his home. It is a very special night where we eat delicious home cooked food with his family by mysterious candle light (due to a major power cut).




You also get familiair with the local daily rituals: early morning the fishing boats head for the sea, buses with local workers arrive at the rice fields, builders pick up their painting brushes, people perform yoga and puja. Around 11am the tourists wake up and head for the beach. From 1pm to 4pm it is siesta time - shops are closed and streets are empty. Around sunset, little markets pop up everywhere. The fishermen sell shiny kingfish and prawns on brightly coloured saris, women carry heavy baskets full off bananas, pineapple and papaya on their heads, cages full of tiny white chicken await their beheading. At sunset, the Hindus head out to the little altars that you can find everywhere in the streets to pray. Immediately after sunset, it is mosquito happy hour - you must stay inside or drench yourself in strong anti-mosquito repellent, after 9pm the music starts playing and the party gets started...










The people in Goa are getting ready for high season. New guesthouses are being built from scratch (women transport buckets of clay on their heads, the clay is made into bricks, a few days later a building is erected, a few days later the walls are plastered and last but not least, the walls are painted in bright colours), existing guesthouses get a layer of fresh paint, coloured papers with adds for yoga and cooking classes appear on every tree, restaurants (re)open... The rice harvest is slowly progressing as well and tons of rice grains are drying in the sun on big blankets. Hard labour in a temperature of 35 degrees celsius.










Got ourselves a nice daily ritual as well: Shailendra's morning ritual at 6.30am, two hours of yoga at 7am (first in an old Portugese house and now under a tree with lovely white flowers that smell amazing) followed by a few laps in the pool, shower, breakfast with fresh pineapple juice and watermelon, a bike ride through the rice fields and little towns to one of the beaches, a bit of swimming and sunbathing, fresh seafood for lunch, a bit more swimming, watching the sunset, a drive back (at this time you can smell the fish from the markets and you have to be careful not to bump into the cows on their way back home), reading a book with a glass of wine on the balcony, finishing up with a nice dinner while enjoying live music. The relaxed beach vibe of Goa is contagious!













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Location:Baga - Goa province, India

Tuesday, October 18, 2011

Yogoa!





It is all Eat Pray Love in Goa (India's riviera)...now.

It started with a major disappointment though. The planned volunteer project does not start until November which we only learned upon arrival in Goa....was very much looking forward to doing something meaningful, meetin interesting people, staying in one place for more than a few days, relaxing, learning mlre about Indian culture and religion and last but not least, not spending more than a few hundred rupees for a few weeks, i.e. BIG fail! The last three weeks of the trip are already reserved for ultimate relaxing on Bali...a few additional weeks of relaxing on the beach seemed it bit too much (I appreciate that readers behind their desk in rainy Europe or USA may ot get this comment).

Scooter Benny and yogateacher Shailendra changed everything though!

After having the disappointment washed away with a chilled bottle of white wine, decided to find a cheap place at the beach for a few weeks. Found a very lovely, but slightly moist, hotel room with a beautiful view over the rice paddies, two little frogs living in the shower (a bit scary at first, but they are behaving very nicely really) and close to a cosy restaurant with good food where a pianoman is performing classics every night.




Not wanting to hassle with an Indian cab driver ever again, made the best (or maybe second best) decision of the trip: rented a scooter named Benny. What a relief and joy to have our own means of transportation!! No more drivers trying to drop you off at their friend's cousin's pashmina shop or refusing to drop you off at the restaurant of your choice ("Restaurant not good, I know much better one"). Get the motor running, head out on the highway.... Wooohooo!




Do not believe anyone who tells you Goa "is not India, has too many tourists and resembles Europe"...it is not like that at all, in the pre-season at least! First of all, it is India but with friendly, smiley people and less cow poop and garbage in the streets where they serve decent wine and delicious seafood! Second, there is hardly anyone and beaches are deserted. Third, do not expect European standards!

Exploring the small province of Goa by scooter is kind of dangerous (due to the reckless driving of the other motorized vehicles, but even more becuase of the sacred cows, dogs and occasional elephant walking in the middle of the road), but it is much fun and the scenery is amazing: a landscape of rice paddies, banana trees and coconut palms, dotted with Portuguese churches and lovely little villages. Every day you easily discover another beautiful isolated beach with a tiny restaurant where smiley Indians serve their catch of the day (usually Kingfish or tiger prawns) grilled with lemon and garlic and served with fries and a salad on the side. You quickly learn that a Kingfish is enjoyed best with a Kingfisher, the local beer! Yum!






























Second best (or maybe best) decision of the trip: signed up for two weeks of private yoga lessons taught by an Indian version of Ketut (you may recall him from Eat Pray Love), named Shailendra. As of now, will start each day very early with Ohm chanting and sun salutations! Although Shailendra is Indian and much younger, he reminds me of Ketut every time he smiles or gives "very important advice" (will share a few later). Let's see what he can accomplish in two weeks with someone who cannot sit in the lotus pose (yet)! To be continued...







Life in Goa is good!

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Location:Goa province, India

Thursday, October 13, 2011

Bombay talking

It's name may have been changed into Mumbai, but Bombay is still alive!























Finishing up with the colourful Mahalaxmi Dobi Ghat ("place where clothes are washed" - the buggest human powered washing machine)










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Location:Mumbai, India

Wednesday, October 12, 2011

Slumdogs for millionaires






Arriving in Mumbai by night is exactly as you would picture it. Bright lights, big city. A place shared by slumdogs and millionaires. A dimlighted boulevard crowded with taxis, cows, tuktuks, motorbikes and people connects the airport and Colaba, the touristy heart of city. Tiny cardboard houses of "the pavement dwellers" are put up in front of the molded remnants of impressive colonial British buildings. The crowd is a mix of beggars, sleek touts and trendy young Indians.

In a city of 19.4 million people (the official number, the real population is estimated to be closer to 24 million), 55% lives in the slums which occupy only 8% of the land. It seems that you have not seen Mumbai, if you have not visited its slums. Dharavi, starring in Oscar winning movie "Slumdog Millionaire" is Mumbai's most famous slum. With its million inhabitants it is a city within a city, one unending stretch of narrow lanes and cramped huts, shops and schools.



Picture by Andreas Grosse-Halbuer

There is an ongoing debate about slum tourism or "slumming". Apparently, there is evidence that the slum experience has perpetuated social motivation to do good and has prompted political demands for greater social justice. Critics argue that the dignity of slum dwellers is violated by the tourist gaze. Taking a tour with Reality Tours (www.realitytoursandtravel.com) seems a smart option. Before bringing in any tourists, they got the informal consent of the community which also increases the safety of the tourists. There is a strict "no camera" policy (understandably, but torture...the place is so photgenic) and 80% of the profits go back to the slums in the form of a school and training centre for young adults.



Picture by Andreas Grosse-Halbuer



Picture by Cory Goldberg

Dharavi has severe problems with public health, due to the scarcity of toilet facilities. There is only one toilet per on or about 1,500 residents. The local river is widely used by local residents for urination and defecation, leading to the spread of contagious diseases. In other respects the slum is thriving, with schools, shops, mobile masts, electricity and running water (for part of the day). It is surprisingly clean, nothing like the open sewer in Varanasi. The people are busy and smiling. An annual turnover of 665 million rupees a year is made by recycling plastic, oil and paint containers, aluminum and other garbage. Dharavi is India's second largest exporter of goat and sheep leather. Dolce & Gabbana and Prada are their customers. Slumdogs for millionaires.

It is definitely an eyeopener and very different from the depressing townships I have seen in Africa.



Picture by Tom Parker



Picture by Tom Parker



Picture by Cory Goldberg



Picture by Cory Goldberg

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Location:Mumbai, India