Yeah, just received permit to enter the TAR (Tibetan Autonomous Region) and managed to book a train ticket for the world's highest train ride from Xining, China to Lhasa, Tibet. The USD1.4 billion costing line tops the 5072m Tanggu-La Pass, 80% of the track is over 4000m and 160km is built over permafrost...luckily all passengers have access to piped-in oxygen, quite a more comfortable trip than A. Henry Savage Landor's to the forbidden land in 1897 (his challenging expedition is described in "An explorer's adventures in Tibet"' - free in Ibook store). Even with a permit access to Tibet is not a given for foreigners though. Tourists were banned from "the Roof of the World" already twice is year. Tensions in 2011 have been high as a result of the 60th anniversy of the Chinese rule over Tibet. The closer one travels to Tibet, the more apparent becomes the tense political situation and secrecy surrounding it.
Travel agent in Xining: "Have you ever met 'mr. D' in person?"
Me: "Mr. who?"
Travel agent (now whispering and secretly looking around): "Sssssstttt, the Dalai Lama. It is very senstive you know. His name cannot be mentioned freely. Do not take any pictures of him with you. You will get in trouble. My cousins fled from Tibet and now live in exile in India. They cannot return without being imprisoned for at least 2 years."
It all sounds a bit Harry Potterish, but have been told many stories about the Chinese attitude vs Tibet during this trip. Very curious to learn more about Tibetan history, buddhism and the ongoing conflict with China.
Now time to stock up at Xining's Muslim Quarter for the 26 hour train ride...what is it gonna be....apples, melons, sunflower seeds or...maybe some chickenfeet to chew on?!
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Location:Xining, China
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